Grand Canyon North Rim 2024 – Part 3

Day 6 Rainbow Rim south to Timp Point

The next two days we rode the Rainbow Rim Trail which 18 miles of trail and a mix of forest single track and cliff side trail with stunning views. There’s quite a lot of up and down which if you’re not used to the elevation makes it feel harder than it is – but it’s all easily rideable with good lungs and legs.

Friday’s ride was 20 mile loop from our camp at Locust Point, south to Timp Point on the rainbow rim trail and returning on Forest trails. There are plenty of places to stop for a breather and take in the awesome views. Strava Activity

Post dinner entertainments was provided by the sunset, campfire, and some evening star-gazing.

Day 7 – Rainbow Rim north to Parissawampitts Point

On Saturday we packed up our gear, had breakfast and the rode the northern section of the rainbow rim trail to Parissawampitts Point and then back via the same route. There was a bit more climbing and for some reason I found this the hardest day. Strava Activity

Back at the (now decamped) camp – we scarfed down some lunch, racked the bikes and started the journey back to civilization. Iain, Bryan and I all had red-eye flights that night and were hoping to get back to Salt Lake City with enough time to get dinner and a much needed shower in the Centurion Lounge at the airport.

All in all – this was a pretty awesome trip – we jammed a lot into our 3 acclimation days and the North Rim didn’t disappoint – great riding and incredible views. If you are interested in this kind of multi-day bike trip – I’d highly recommend RimTours – this is my 4th trip with them and I suspect I have more in the future.

Grand Canyon North Rim 2024 – Part 2

Day 4 – Arizona Trail to East Rim

After another good breakfast at Cafe Feellove in St George, we headed over to the Red Lion Hotel to meet our fellow riders, and our RimTours guides – Beth, Birdie, and Lauren. After meeting the crew we loaded our gear onto the trailer and headed to our start point 2 hours away on the Kaibab Plateau.

We stopped briefly at the Jacob Lake Visitor Center to pick up three more riders and drop our rental car. then another short drive to pick up the Arizona trail once we got our bikes setup.

The first day was pretty light (just 14 miles) but had a couple of short technical climbs. All the riding was between 8500ft and 8800ft and this was my first exposure to strenuous exercise at a decent elevation. Our guides warned us to take it easy on the first climb – I really had no choice – it felt like I was breathing through a mask ! After a quick lunch stop and more bike adjustments, on to our campsite for the night at the East Rim Overlook. Note – campsites here are basic – usually just a sign telling you where you can and can’t camp. No pit toilets, no water, no shelter, no network. You have to bring everything you need with you – or in our case pay RimTours to do it !

Strava Activity

Day 5 – East Rim to Rainbow Rim

Still on East Coast time, I was up early enough for the sunrise yoga / stretching overlooking the Colorado river. The 4th picture below is the site of our “Groover” which seems to find the most scenic viewing spots one these trips. After breakfast and decamping – we jumped back on the Arizona Trail. We had a much longer ride (32 miles) – some single track, some high-prairie, and some forest service roads. We peaked around 9000ft but ended the day at Locust Point campsite around 7600ft. Fortunately for my lungs – not much climbing but it was a long day of riding and once we had setup camp and eaten another awesome dinner prepared by our guides – it was time to grab a beer and watch the sunsetting.

Strava Activity.

Grand Canyon North Rim 2024 – part 1

Day 1 – Travel and Zen

This year’s south west mountain bike trip started with a few days acclimating to the heat and altitude in St George, Utah. We picked up rental bikes pretty much as soon as we got into town after the 2 hour drive from Vegas. We rented the bikes and a 4 bike rack from Red Rock Bikes in nearby Hurricane – great shop with friendly staff who helped us get everything set up. We had a longer ride planned for the next day but after a day of travel were keen to get out and ride despite the 100F+ temperatures. After a bit of driving around we found the trail head parking for the Zen Trail – a fairly short, climby, technical trail just outside St George. The trail isn’t well marked and the whole area is covered in trails and not surprisingly we went off course a little and after all the climbing I managed to split my tire and couldn’t fix it on the trail so had to waste the wonderful downhill section. Strava activity.

Day 2 – Wire Mesa

On Monday (Memorial day) we met up with David and headed to Wire Mesa – it’s a smaller, less exposed version of the better know Gooseberry Mesa and in the same general area. Getting to the parking lot is a bit of an adventure but well worth it – I could ride this kind of trail every day of the week – technical enough that you have to pay attention and choose your line, but completely rideable. The views of Zion and surrounding area were stunning – photos just don’t do it justice. We dropped the bikes back to Red Rock in Hurricane and hit River Rock Roasters for lunch. Strava Activity

Day 3 – The Narrows, Zion

It was a toss up between hiking Angels Landing and The Narrows and The Narrows won. We got to the already fairly full main parking lot about 7am and jumped on the 45 minute shuttle to the start of the river trail (Temple of Sinawava). We’d already unwittingly made our first mistake in our rush to get on the shuttle – we didn’t rent hiking staffs – only Iain had hiking poles, Brian and I had to make do with whatever improvised walking poles we could find on the river bank. Unless you’re an aquatic mountain goat – I wouldn’t recommend hiking the narrows without a staff or hiking poles.

We didn’t quite get to “Big Springs” (the end of the trail) due to high water and strong currents – we’d already swam / waded chest deep in some sections and it was becoming cold and tiring. We did explore the smaller “Orderville Canyon” on the way up – a beautiful side canyon with fewer people and no wading. In all we hiked just over 12 miles in 5.5 hours. For hike that is pretty much flat – it was pretty strenuous and difficult underfoot – I’m still surprised my weak ankles and knees held out.

Note – you can see the sections where we had to swim on Strava as it sent the Altimeter on my Apple Watch haywire.

The Maze 2023 – Day 5 – Teapot to Lake Powell

Final day and a long ride out of the Canyonlands to Hite at the north end of where Lake Powell used to be before it dried up and shrunk. We packed up camp – enjoyed the final views from our amazing campground, breakfast, and some stretching, then loaded the support truck to head out on our long but mostly downhill ride.

The riding was pretty easy, though on tired legs, even a small climb turns into a real effort, and there were plenty of climbs as we passed through washes and over rolling hills. The views were as spectacular as we’d seen over the last 5 days, with some broad vistas of the Henry Mountains to the North West.

We made a few quick stops to regroup and take in the views but mostly hammered toward our goal. The goal was Stan’s Burger Shak in Hankersville which serve the best / only milkshakes for a hundred miles – good to be back to cold and creamy civilization.

Strava link is here.

The Maze 2023 – Day 4 – Land of the Standing Rocks

Another early start for a long day of riding. Heading back into The Maze and the Land of the Standing Rocks – some cool rock formations we could see in the distance from Camp on the first night.

Our guides had warned us about the out-and-back ride today – strenuous and very technical for the first 2-3 miles – with chunky rock gardens, punchy climbs, and numerous rock steps. I really like technical trails, and my personal goal was to ride everything cleanly. As it’s an out and back route – hitting the rock gardens the second time after a day of riding would be the biggest challenge,

After passing Mother and Child, we stopped for lunch in the shade of The Wall. Then continued a few more miles to Chimney Rock where we stopped for a little hike and climbed up a bit to get some more views of The Maze.

According to Strava it was only 27 miles and only 1700ft of climbing, but everyone was pretty crushed at the end of the day – it’s one of those epic rides that gives you a full body workout and apps like Strava really don’t capture the amount of exertion you’re under.

I didn’t quite achieve my clean run goal – I dabbed a foot a couple of times towards the end – a combination of exhaustion and very tight technical step ups that appeared around a blind corner and left no time to prepare or build up any momentum.

This was also our final night camping and my bladder forced me to get out and see the stars at about 2am – absolutely mindblowing.

Strava link here.

The Maze 2023 – Day 3 – Maze Overlook to Teapot Campsite

I’ve made a couple of these trips before (White Rim in 2016, Kokopelli in 2022), and I prefer this format – camping at two sites for two nights each vs. a new campsite every night – camping and decamping is a lot of work – especially when you’re already exhausted after a long ride. At this point – it’s worth pointing out that these back-country campsites are nothing more than an area marked for camping. There are no facilities – no water, bathrooms, seating, shade, fire-pits, nothing but boundary markers. But what they lack in amenities, they more than makeup for in location and stunning views. The Maze Overlook is one of the most incredible places I’ve camped at, and even the privy (aka Groover) spot has breathtaking vires while you contemplate the day ahead.

We hit the trails after packing our gear, de-gunging the bikes, doing a little bit of recovery yoga, and helping load the truck.

The morning entertainment was reversing our ride from day 1 – climbing back up the Golden Stairs, and regaining 800 feet in the process. After a quick photo op overlooking Canyonlands and Bagpipe Butte while we waited for the support truck to pick its way through the fairly technical uphill we bombed down and had lunch stop in a dry creek bed with little shade. Hot, hot, hot !

Post lunch was a leisurely cruise down to Teapot Campsite – our home for the next few nights. We had a big day of riding tomorrow on very technical trails. so we walked over to check it out and pick out some lines through the rock gardens.

My Strava ride is here.

The Maze 2023 – Day 2 – Hike to the Harvest Scene Pictographs

Today was a “rest” day – meaning a rest from riding. Instead, the plan was to hike/scramble/climb down into the canyon below our camp to view some of the world-famous Barrier Canyon pictographs and petroglyphs. The pictographs are believed to date from 2000 BCE to 500 CE (Common Era), but not much is known about who created them or their exact meaning.

After drinking plenty of the best coffee for 50 miles in any direction and a cooked breakfast, we set off. It took us about 90 minutes to scramble down into the canyon, and unless you know exactly where you are going, I will not attempt this – there are plenty of places you could go off course and get into trouble. It’s a very exposed descent, the trial is not well marked, and a slip or fall would likely end in severe injury. There are some primitive Moki steps at a couple of points if you can find them. Getting out of the canyon with any kind of injury would be impossible without assistance and the right equipment.

It was a toasty hike to the main Pictograph canyon with full sun, no shade, and no breeze. Once we got to the canyon floor, we were treated to an explosion of desert plants. There’s been a lot of rain in the area, and this was apparently one of the best spring blooms in living memory.

There’s not much online about these pictographs other than people’s accounts of hiking into the canyon to visit them. They are the same Barrier Canyon style as other sites in the area – nearby Horshoe Canyon being one of the most extensive sites.

The hike back up to camp was much quicker and easier but still pretty strenuous, and we even found a little shade. Fortunately, there were no injuries aside from a few scrapes, and it was great to spend time in an area that very few people will ever have the opportunity to visit, given its remoteness.

Returning to camp for a few beers, another excellent dinner, and a spectacular lighting and rainbow show was a good end to the day.

The Maze 2023 – Day 1

We had an early start, but as we’re all East Coasters – we were all wide awake before the 5.30am alarm. The Sunrise in Moab is always special – the red sandstone cliffs glow red, and you can start to feel the sun’s heat. We packed up the rental car – literally packed it to the gills, and headed off to Green River to meet our Rimtours guides and fellow explorers. We caffeinated on the edge of town at Horsethief Coffee and arrived at Green River in time for breakfast at Tamarisk, where we watched the very swollen Green River rush by.

The start of our ride was at the Hans Flat Ranger Station on the western boundary of the Canyonlands. Getting there was an adventure – 46 miles of washed-out Jeep trails through barren BLM-owned high desert. Once there, we met our guides and fellow travelers (Donna and Sue), got our gear and bikes ready, transferred our packs and camping gear, and reviewed the route for the rest of the day.  

Saying goodbye to civilization and the extensive facilities at Hans Flat – a shaded picnic table, a vault toilet, and a map. From here on – there’s no potable water, bathrooms, or electricity, and the only shade is provided by stubby Juniper trees and your own headwear.

The morning ride was a pretty easy, flat ride along the top of the Orange Cliffs, stopping for pictures at the Bagpipe Bute overlook; we then dropped down the Flint Trail switchbacks and had a quick lunch break at the bottom.

After lunch, we dropped a few more hundred feet and entered the Canyonlands NP, where we encountered our first Canyon. As impressive as it was – we’d discover in the next hour or so that it was barely a ditch at the side of the trail compared to The Maze.

Day 1 – mission accomplished – 28 fairly easy miles. The final destination for day 1 is Maze Overlook, Camp 1, and our base for the next few days.

Follow the Strava link for more details.

The Legendary HyMasa and Captain Ahab

After 5 days of riding, Jack and I still had a bit more ride left in us – our fellow explorers decided to try something different for the day but we were determined to make the most of what Moab has to offer in the shredding department. Our RimTours guides recommended a couple of local rides. The HyMasa / Captain Ahab  and the Mag 7 seemed like the best options and we chose Captain Ahab because Jack thought we really needed to do a double black diamond after five hard days of riding and I’m an irresponsible father.

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We re-rented the same bikes we’d been using for the last four days and were dropped at the start of HyMasa by David – one of our Raleigh compadres. It was around 10am and already fairly busy (probably due to OuterBike).

HyMasa is a slow 3 mile grind  on a mixture of rock and dirt and is mostly pretty straight forward but you have to keep moving to ascend the numerous rock steps that take you up to the start of Captain Ahab. This really is some of the best mountain biking I’ve ever experienced – slow going but fulfilling.

On the way up my son and I passed a pivotal moment in our father son relationship – given his superior fitness going uphill and fearlessness going downhill – he became the leader; and me the follower. Of course he didn’t notice – he was too busy racing some of the local hammerheads to the top of the mountain.

After you’ve enjoyed the amazing view you start the Capt. Ahab descent – it’s all very technical though most of the big drops have an alternative line so you can make the ride as hard or easy as you want – there were only a couple of places we had to dismount and walk. But this really is a very technical and unforgiving trail – if you take a fall you’re going to get hurt and you’re a long way from anywhere – I never ride in knee or elbow pads but would definitely do that next time. Jack came off twice and was lucky to only loose some skin – we slowed our pace after the second tumble.

When we got back to the parking lot (after a short traffic jam due to 4 wheelers) the mountain rescue team were heading into HyMasa with a stretcher – a rider had fallen and broken his arm (compound fracture) – a good reminder that while this is some of the best MTBing on the planet – it’s not without it’s risks.

This is a trail I would definitely ride again – with fresh legs and some armor it would be a blast !

 

 

 

Day 4 – White Rim Road : Potato Bottom to Horsethief

Read day 1 – White Rim Road : Shafer to Airport

Read day 2 – White Rim Road : Airport to Murphy

Read day 3 – White Rim Road : Murphy to Potato Bottom

day4map

After the evening’s star, satellite and ISS spotting we woke to a beautiful calm and clear morning. Being next to the Green River where there’s a little more moisture – we got a mild frost and the Sun took a little longer to rise over the surrounding mesas but once it did we had coffee and a decent last day breakfast in the (relatively) warm morning sun.

First task of the day was to reclaim all the height we lost tearing down Murphy’s with a tough couple of climbs straight out of the camp (Hardscrabble) – no chance to warm up the legs or lungs.

The next 7 or 8 miles along the Green River were mostly flat and fast with some interesting stops on the way to view some old Anasazi Indian ruins and artifacts the guides had discovered over the years.

 

Between us a lunch was our final and toughest climb of the week – Horsethief Bottom up to the Island in The Sky – it’s not technically hard – just soul crushing as the alpine-style switchbacks seem to go on forever. The kids practically sprinted up leaving many of the adults in the dust. My plan was to start last and attack from the back – I didn’t quite pull off the second part of that strategy ;(

Our ride finished with another great lunch in the parking lot at the top of the climb – more stunning views and a great place for some group pictures. But there’s more